by Kay Muir
March 2011
Last issue, we joined Don and Kay Muir, as they began their Caribbean adventure. We left them on Christmas Day at Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. Since then, they have visited St Marten and Antigua and have sailed across the Caribbean Sea. This issue, we join Karinya and her crew as they explore the idyllic San Blas Islands and make their transit through the Panama Canal into the Pacific ...
February 10, At anchor off Cayos Diablo, San Blas Islands, Panama (9°25.5’N /
78°29.2’W): We have arrived at the San Blas Islands after 8½ days sailing across the Caribbean from Antigua. We had to motor the last 4 hours after the wind died; we’d got used to 20 - 30 knots of East wind. The anchor went down about 1100 hours at Cayos Diablo.
After a little while, a wooden dugout canoe arrived with full complement of official crew from the San Blas Harbour Master (i.e., father and three children about 3, 5 and 10 years of age). The local language is Spanish of which I speak two words (all those nights in the cockpit learning French when I should have learnt Spanish) and the ‘official’ spoke marginally more English. After an entertaining half hour, we learnt that he was the local nominated person to collect anchorage fees. We duly paid $US5 for the month for which we received a receipt (in Spanish).
There’s that saying, ‘there’s no use in crying over split milk’, well maybe if there’s two litres lurking under the floor and going into the bilge, it may cause some concern especially as it’s been there three days in 30°C heat. There had been 6 x 1L cartons of long life milk stored safely for a month, until one day on the crossing they decided to take a dive and land splat on the floor. No problem, I was assured, there was no leakage and besides which, they couldn’t fall any more. On picking up the milk cartons, two were very light, the contents of which had headed for the black hole. But never mind the spilt milk, the important stuff—Antigua Ale—was OK and had its first tasting here.
February 14, Cayos Banderos, San Blas Islands, Panama: Back to the village at Rio Diablo to try for some more fresh veggies, to the bank and to buy a sim card for the phone!
Despite the village being very basic there was a bank and a place to buy a sim card, even if it was one lady in a bamboo shelter next to 3 public Digicel telephones. We bought 4 top-
up cards each with the number 5 on, although what the 5 means we are not sure.
Presumably, they last half the amount as those with a 10.
The bank has an armed guard outside dressed in army combat gear. He looked to be about 20 years old and extremely bored. I can’t imagine there would be a lot of call for his action. Inside, we dutifully waited our turn, only to learn that cash cannot be withdrawn with a credit card. So, with what little cash we had left we went in search of bread and veggies. Still no veggies today but some very nice, still warm bread rolls and 2L boxes of very palatable Chilean white wine (well that’s sort of fruit, isn’t it).
We returned to Cayos Banderos. Where else would you want to spend Valentine’s Day but anchored off this idyllic island? No champagne and red roses but palm trees and a Chilean white.
February 16, Cayos Holandes, San Blas chain, Panama (9°34.9’N / 78°40.8’W): As I was sitting quietly (hand stitching around the facings of the hand holes in the diesel can covers!) about 10am, I heard music and laughter. When I looked up, I saw a group of ladies in the water, each with a pool noodle floaty thing and each wearing some head attire doing aqua aerobics to the YMCA and Rockin’ Robin. I had to refrain from dropping my sewing and jumping in to join them.
February 17, San Blas Islands, Panama: There’s excellent service around here, almost as good as ordering on-line from Coles and having food delivered to your door, except you get to see what’s on offer first. There must have been a delivery to Rio Diablo as that’s where the boat came from. The boat slowly did the rounds of all the boats at anchor. The veggie boat appearance was timely as we were down to the last bit of green stuff and only bananas left in the way of fresh fruit. The green beans, tomatoes, courgettes, oranges and pineapple were very welcome. They were even selling wine, beer and Coca Cola, which was the dearest of all items.
After our great shopping venture we went to an outer reef in search of fish, but no luck. As we were close to an island, we went ashore. There was resident’s palm frond hut, a shelter, washing on the line and a beautiful swept area around all of the coconut palms, some of which had carefully arranged circles of palm frond ends laid around the bottom. Lo and behold in the midst of the palm trees was a circle of ladies, standing, arms outstretched, gazing towards the heavens. How silly of me, it’s yoga so it must be Thursday. Wednesday is aqua aerobics! Might sign up for the patchwork quilting tomorrow!
February 20, Cayos Limons, San Blas Islands, Panama: We set sail in 10 knots of breeze, downwind with just the spinnaker flying and doing nearly 7 knots, arriving at Cayos Limons, picking our way through the reefs before anchoring in quite shallow water. With 0.2m under the keel, we thought we had best not proceed any further along the marked (with plastic bottles, red and white) channel, reversed and anchored.
Ashore on the island was a bar (a grass hut with plastic tables and chairs) with a big flat screen TV, and internet access for $3/hour, bring your own laptop. So there we were, sitting in the shade, drinking local Panama beer and chilled red wine, using the internet, surrounded by coconut palms, a left over imitation Christmas tree, next to a partially deflated headless Santa climbing a rope ladder, decorated with even more deflated green balloons, opposite a beach volley ball court (locals in a serious match) and a skinny, coconut-chewing German Shepherd dog (I guess good bones are hard to come by). Add to the scene, a couple of lads with their catch of the day, some young girls led by an older lady sewing their molas, a lady retrieving laundry off the roof, where it had been left to dry, with a long stick, and a lady, all of 4 foot nothing, dressed in local colourful costume, a mobile phone in each hand, enthusiastically pressing buttons. One phone was then passed over to an older gentleman, freeing a hand to pick up a can of beer which she was enjoying in the company of others.
February 21, Porvenir, San Blas Islands, Panama: Having sailed for a couple of hours, we went to check in at Porvenir in a Spartan, uniquely constructed building. Immigration was more or less straightforward given the language differences. For customs clearance etc, we were directed to another door, which was locked and were told that the customs man would be back in 5 minutes (island time).
Eventually Ismail showed up and we sat in his office for a few minutes while he fiddled about and then wrote something on paper. They were the opening and closing times. Closed at 3pm. It was by then 4pm. We explained what we wanted to do. He appeared to get agitated (or maybe he was just talking louder and faster in Spanish, the less we understood) A call to the Panama agent clarified we could check in there and get our all important ‘zarpe’ papers. It now being 4.30pm and way past his closing time he proceeded to deal with our clearance. The procedure took at least half an hour. I think the Panama government must have a vested interest in the paper industry, for I have never seen so much paperwork involved. There were
at least four different packs, each with at least four copies attached by a serrated edge strip, plus two other documents to complete, all hand written. No wonder it took so long but not
bad considering he was closed.
There had been reports on the net of a missing yacht, Wind-something-or-other. Now all conversation re the missing boat had been suspended due to the involvement of the FBI. In short, missing boat was found. The name had been painted over and a new name ‘Green Twilight’ hand painted by an amateur (definitely wouldn’t recommend that person gave up his day time job to be a sign writer). Next someone is arrested at a farm somewhere with the credit cards and passport of Wind-something-or-other’s owner, who is no more. Cruiser’s Weekly makes Neighbours or the Archers look like children’s bedtime stories.
February 22, Punta Pescador (9°35.5’N / 79°28.2’W): Now halfway from San Blas to Colon and I’ve taken to keeping a couple of Snickers bars in the fridge (so that they are not all soft and semi-melted) for emergency use and this constituted an emergency. OK, only a category three emergency, but still an emergency none the less (Category 1 = rough passage, not going below to cook; Category 2 = on watch at 3am, need a sugar fix; Category 3 = won’t be anchored till after lunch time, need food) and I was bored. We’d left Porvenier to sail to some bay for an overnight anchorage, the wind was light and it was rolly and 45 minutes to anchor down. So, I rummaged in the fridge and was shocked to discover, only half a Snickers bar. How could that be? Until the culprit is found there will be no more Snickers on board.
February 23, Isla Grande, Panama (9°37.8’N / 79°33.8’W): Just a short hop and they actually have houses here made of concrete, not bamboo! Isla Grande is a calm anchorage and a pleasant village with an hotel, a shop and a couple of restaurants, one of which we sampled in the evening. Sitting out on the deck over the water, we wined and dined on our expensive $5 dish. There were meant to be three different meals of chicken but essentially they looked all the same and we think they were the ones being chopped up and put in a bucket earlier in the day. The Workplace Health and Safety mob would have had a field day in the kitchen which spilled out onto the deck for the washing up area. Scraps were deposited in a bucket next to the washing up receptacle before being transferred to an old esky, which was right next to our table. There was an enthusiastic young lad working as the kitchen hand.
February 24, enroute to Portobello, San Blas Islands, Panama: We didn’t know we had a self-furling spinnaker. On route to Portobelo, the wind was just 10 knots or less and a rolly sea. Time for a spinnaker. Up it went and before you could say Captain Jack Sparrow, it had wrapped around itself. Then before you could say ‘pieces of eight’, it did it again and again. To undo it we had to do about 8 pirouettes and were in danger, as it unfolded, of catching on the spreaders. Thankfully, it didn’t and was brought down before you’d even thought of saying anything.
February 25: Portobello, San Blas Islands, Panama: Our day out started with a fully loaded dinghy and a wet derriere, due to swamping. Next was the colourful bus with air-brushed art work and an equally colourful driver. Initially the bus stopped every couple of metres to pick up passengers and as the driver braked, lights flashed on the dash board. We hadn’t been going long when smoke billowed out of the dash board and the driver frantically stuffed a rag in the hole whilst cursing the man who was supposed to have fixed something.
To relieve the passengers of the smell of an electrical fire, he proceeded to spray air freshener at the offending smoke! The bus continued to pick up passengers and when
you thought there wasn’t room for any more, more were squeezed on. Almost at our destination, Sabientos, the bus stopped at a crowded stop and to our relief many passengers clambered to get off. One passenger about 18 months – 2 years, who had been cradled in
her, as we thought, mother’s arms, was passed through the window to a girl who placed the child on the crossbars of a bicycle. The cost of this hour’s entertainment: $1 per person. The
excitement of the bus ride had been just too much and we got a taxi back and once back all our purchases were stowed supermarket en route. Jon sat in the front with his eyes closed most of the way, though whether it was tiredness or fear was hard to tell. Quickly showered, fed, watered and off to bed, ready for Karinya’s transit tomorrow.
March 6, Panama Canal Transit #2: Karinya’s turn. Crossed the harbour to Colon to pick up Harold, our advisor (who is on time) and we are up through the locks in much quicker time. Three-boat raft, this time, which, as centre boat, meant we did not have to do much line handling. We waved to the web cam just in case anyone was watching back home (I was ... Ed.) All went smoothly and once through the 3rd lock, tied up to the overnight buoy well before sunset. After Harold departed, beer and wine flowed freely for the daily celebration of Beer O'clock.
March 7, Gatun Lake, Panama: We had a great trip this morning through Gatun Lake and the “down” locks. Our advisor was Eddie Murphy disguised as Ricky. A great guy, cartographer by day and Panama Canal advisor, ‘just for fun’, in his ‘spare’ time. Only a 2-boat raft this time and no big ships in the lock. The “down” process went like clockwork and we came out and headed downstream to the anchorage near the end of the Causeway. Back-to-back canal transits has left us all very weary, but we are now in the Pacific.
March 8, Islas Flamenco, Panama: We ventured ashore and had a walk around the local vicinity of three very small islands which are connected to each other and the mainland by a long causeway. There were several restaurants, accommodation and a few touristy shops. We treated ourselves to ice-creams which turned out to be twice the size of a double one in Oz. We were forced to eat them very quickly as they were melting rapidly in the heat. Back at the boat, we moved to the other side of the Causeway, where there is less canal traffic and it is hopefully less rolly.
March 8, Las Brisas, Panama: We went to a nearby café to meet the ‘clearing in’ person. In Panama, you have to clear in and out of each port, not just the country. We entered ‘the office’ - a table at the café - to complete the once again necessary paperwork, which will have to be done again when we leave.
March 14, Panama City: Went to the supermarket and as we were getting a taxi back, did a large shop. Half an hour to fill a shopping trolley and at least 45 minutes to get through the checkout. There were about 4 trolleys and 25 people in front of us and equally as many behind. When we came to pay, they didn’t accept credit cards. We struggled to find enough cash, but Jon contributed two $US50 notes that he got from his bank in Oz. It turns out that $50 notes are very suspect here as they are often associated with drug running. The supervisor was called, the numbers on the notes recorded, ID shown and a signature recorded. This is standard Panama practice.
March 16, Old Spanish Quarter: Played tourist today doing some sight-seeing in the Old Spanish Quarter. This would have been a walled city in the 17/18th century when colonised by Spain. There are lots of narrow streets. Half of the buildings are in ruins, with some being rebuilt/renovated as ‘yuppie villas’, but with some control on developers by UNESCO. We were told the Panamanian President’s official residence was in this area of the city. There were guards/MPs/polizi everywhere, wearing every type of uniform. I think these were the Presidential guards as opposed to the ‘police’ police, the traffic police, the security police and whatever other police they have here, all armed, in uniform, with bullet proof vests. Very comforting.
March 21, Las Brisas, Panama: Beginning to arrange ‘clearing out’ procedures, so our departure for the Galapagos is finally imminent. We did another huge shop yesterday, stocking up on tins, dried food, meat for the freezer, etc that will have to last at least 6 months. It was a tight fit getting all the shopping into the taxi with us, but all is stowed.
March 31, departing Panama: The final boat checks are done, we’ve cleared customs and are finally heading off on our Galapagos adventure ... just need a bit of wind to get there.
