by Pam Graham
March 2010
Our intrepid cruisers, Pam and Len, join the cargo vessel, MV Trinity Bay, for a 5-day cruise along the far north Queensland coast.
The main reason for going on this trip was to catch up with our very good English friends, who were visiting Australia and were keen to take the cruise. We warned them it was the cyclone season but after weighing up all the pros and cons they decided they would take it anyway. At least it would mean spending time with them even if it was in a cyclone shelter!
We contemplated driving the car up to Cairns and spending at least a day looking around the area, the Daintree, Port Douglas, Cape Tribulation etc, but unfortunately, the week before we were to leave we were advised the roads were impassable at Bowen and the trains and coaches were not running. So it had to be flying, but as this makes one’s arms ache we booked with a commercial airline!
We left for Brisbane on Wednesday March 3 and flew to Cairns where we met our friends. Two nights in the hotel and one day for sightseeing meant we rented a car and set off North to see as much as possible in a day. We were not disappointed, spending time walking in the Daintree National Park, gushing rivers and waterfalls, including a ride on a cable-ferry across the Daintree River. This is a beautiful part of Queensland and deserves further exploration.
On Friday March 5 we boarded the MV Trinity Bay for our 5-day trip from Cairns to Thursday Island and other places in the ship’s schedule. The reception area was a surprise to us … imagine a container with both long sides removed and a few plastic chairs for us to sit and be ‘comfortable’. The luggage was stacked in the blazing sunshine ready to be forklifted on board. We wondered if we too would be craned aboard in the container but thank heaven we walked.
We were taken into the air-conditioned dining/lounge area where we were taken away one at a time to our cabins. The ship is 81m long but we occupied only the stern section along with the crew and staff. Immediately afterwards we were given a safety talk then introduced to those areas of the ship which were available to us: the TV room, the upper deck and the bridge area adjacent to the actual wheelhouse.
Later we did get a tour of the Captain’s domain, where we saw their navigation tools, radars, very small wheel (similar to a sports car) and the GPS tracking device. Interestingly, paper charts were used to plot the course and to check the GPS position with waypoints that were pre-programmed. The Captain does not interface the GPS with any other electronics, like radar or auto pilot; something, with which we firmly agree.
We departed about 6pm that evening and after a sumptuous buffet dinner we went on deck to look at the view. The weather was settled, the sea was calm and the ship was steady as a rock. We could have been in a hotel. Although comparatively noisy, everyone slept well.
At the end of the next day we arrived at Lockhart River and anchored off, ready for a barge to come alongside and take delivery. It was both entertaining and marvelous to watch the crew as they leaped from container to container fixing hooks, pulling ropes, working closely with the crane driver using whistle signals. There were quite a few young men and one or two more experienced, older fellows. We watched all this being done with floodlights as it got darker and when finished, we watched the barge leave and we were on our way.
Next morning we were served a buffet breakfast; everything from fresh fruit, yoghurt, cereal and fruit juice to eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns, mushrooms, baked beans and toast. Coffee and tea were available all day to help yourself. Fruit cordials and biscuits were also all day fare. At mid afternoon we found some extra delicacies on a plate set out for our enjoyment. The crew ate each meal before us and had the same fare. We had a lovely young German lady chef who produced excellent food of every variety. I’m sure we all put on weight! The bar was open at lunch time and again from 4.30pm to 9pm when we often played games, read our books or wandered on deck to keep an eye out for … pirates? … or whatever. Every evening we were on deck for sunset and some of them were spectacular.
Each morning we checked the GPS and looked at the charts to see our progress, which was duplicated on a monitor in the lounge area. Actually, we kept a watchful eye on the Captain’s waypoints as we weaved our way through the islands and reefs on our way North! We were called to the Bridge on our second day and had our introduction to navigation and watch keeping. We were impressed with the Captain’s boat handling, in particular when he docked at Horn Island, Weipa, Bamaga (Seisa) and Cairns. We passed through Albany Passage with everyone on deck. The cliffs and bays were very close and the current was running at 5knots. WOW! What a beautiful area. However, the presence of crocodiles and stinging, lethal jellyfish is a serious drawback!
We docked at Horn Island where we visited a WWII fort, the museum created by Vanessa Seekee and her husband Liberty, two Thursday Islanders of Chinese origin, who recognised the importance of WWII history on Horn Island. Apparently they are now getting visits from soldiers who were stationed there, so their research and displays are kept in very good condition. We also enjoyed a short tour into the bush area as wet weather prevented us going very far. Liberty Seekee was our guide and we gained a very good impression of life there, saw some WWII remains and visited their museum.
Back at the jetty we were transported to Thursday Island by ferry for a tour which took us all round the island. At the end we visited the Anglican Church where the bell from the wreck of the SS Quetta is suspended and much artwork based on the story is displayed. We ended up at the Pub at the Top of Australia, where we really enjoyed a coldie! Temperatures were in the high 30’s all the time and quite took your breath away. However, NO biting insects or flies. It was beautiful.
Back on the ship we departed for Weipa. This extra journey was scheduled because the other supply ship was still in dry dock and supplies were needed there. It took about 14 hours motoring to Weipa, a long wait for the dock to be vacated and 14 hours back! The boat is noisy; it vibrates constantly and you can’t get away from it. Unfortunately, the first deck area you came out on is also the smoking area. Fortunately for us, there were very few smokers in our party and not many of the crew smoked, for which we were grateful.
Our next trip was out of Bamaga to the tip of Cape York. We held our breath, in case the weather had been too wet for us to go. The news was good and we had a really good drive through forest and bush to the top of Australia ... Cape York. We parked and were then guided on a walk and a scramble over rocks and up hills until we reached a high point and from where we gradually picked our way down to the tip of the mainland. We saw cairns people had built stone by stone and when we reached the top we had another island ahead of us with a lighthouse at its peak. There were several islands around, the water was clear, we could see every stone and the sea was turquoise. We were so lucky. Our return took us onto the beach and we rejoined our vehicle. The guide took us to another beach where we walked and some saw the graves of wrecked souls. Talking to the guide revealed the possibility of a saltwater crocodile sunning himself on the beach, but no matter how hard we looked, we never saw him.
With everyone back on the ship we departed for Cairns via Lockhart River. The last 24 hours saw the weather deteriorate with spectacular storms on the land and rising seas, but Trinity only rolled gently, hardly noticeable, and we had come to the end of our holiday. We ate well, drank good wine, enjoyed interesting side trips and excellent weather. We couldn’t have asked for more, except perhaps, turning the engine off and putting up the sails, but we were on the wrong ship! The accommodation was good and the entire trip was spent in the good company of the other passengers, many of whom we hope to meet again. That is the MV Trinity Bay.
MV Trinity Bay is operated by the Sea Swift Shipping Company and departs from Cairns every Friday for a 6-day round trip to Thursday Island. Rates start from $695 per person, low season, triple and quad share cabin. For more information, visit www.seaswift.com.au.